The first Stretch Jean
In the 1960s, an American scientific Joseph Shivers invents the fiber K, a polyurethane derivate with flexible and resistant properties that will quickly spread in the textile industry. But it’s only in the 1980s that the Jean’s manufacturers managed to integrate this material into the blue fabric. The jeans thus gain flexibility, regain its original shape after stretched and allows much more freedom to stylists…It’s a revolution for the women but we need to wait the 2000s to have stretch for men.
The Wash Out
In the 1970s that the wash out make an apparition in the jeans world with the french guys François Girbaud (who was also the godfather of Armalith in its early days). He invents a washout technique that consists of washing the jeans in the machine with pumice stones to obtain fading marks. This technique is called « Stone Washing » revolutionizes the denim industry. This process is replaced by sandblasting in the 2000s but it creates diseases for operators. In addition, the wash out of a single jean requires 150 liters of water and the addition of chemicals…
François Girbaud thinks about a new wash out technique more environmentally and people aware. And it is in 2008 that he proposes a revolutionary concept of jean wear of the laser denominated the « Wattwash ». Developed with the Spanish machine manufacturer Jeanologia, this new technique allows to have a precise, automated, reproducible wash that can be created from a photo file or even a scan of an old jean. This technique reduces water consumption by 97,5%, energy by 60% and chemicals by 80%.
The Jean becomes Worldwide
The fabric has almost reach perfection, it can be wear everywhere on the planet, in all seasons and in all circumstances. The market is growing structurally with 73 jeans sold every second. Today, the Jean became an essential clothes of the women’s and men’s wardrobe, you can not miss it. Everyone wears it, but there are endless ways and styles. From now on, it rhymes more with fashion than with political demands ans social identity, though…Nowadays we find the jeans under all cuts : from the classic cut « regular » to the « slim » cut. He is also more and more stretch and fine.
Does the Jean are bad for the environment ?
Jeans cause a major problem today that one of respect for environment. Jeans are one of the most polluting products in the world. Indeed, to make jeans, we use liters ow water, toxic products such as pesticides, dyes or detergents. Jeans travel millions of kilometers to reach our shops… All these parameters make him a very polluting clothing. The Jean is also a product which don’t enjoy a good ethics. Indeed, with globalization and in a logic of immediate profits, most big textile companies have relocated their production to countries where the cost of labo ris low and social rights almost non-existent. In these countries, states open their borders without asking for compensation. This unregulated globalization allowed to large companies to expand their subsidiary and subcontractor and to enrich themselves to the cost of a cheap and vulnerable workforce. To gain even more profits, the multinational business are engaged in a « war price » which come out as a strong pressure on the suppliers and subcontractor. They are ready to break human rights and turn a blind eye to the conditions of work, hygiene and safety of workers. Accidents are common. Most worker are women and even children who work without social protection more than 12 hours a day, 6 days out of 7 for wages sometimes below the legal minimum of the country.
Today Uzbekistan, the world’s fifth largest exporter of cotton is requisitioning over a million of its citizens. Under duress from the government, women, students and children are inclined to do harvest cotton. To know more about the use of cotton in clothes fabrication, you can watch the report of Cash Investigation.
The technique of sand washing which consists of spraying sand at high pressure on the jeans also poses health problems to the workers who practice it. Indeed, the workers expose themselves to serious risks of silicosis (a incurable pulmonary disease caused by inhalation of silica dust). Most of the time they work without adequate ventilation, protective equipment and training.
BOLID’STER, an ethical and environmentally friendly alternative
Today there are more and more brands that are concerned about their ecological and social impact, but this movement is still embryonic. The carbon footprint (energy consumption) of BOLID’STER jeans is reduced by 80% compared to motorcycle jean using an aramid lining (Kevlar) and 60% compared to a classic jean made in Maghred. How is it possible ? First the use of UHMWPE (which protects against abrasion) requires half the energy needed to produce Kevlar. Cotton is supplied from Greece. Then, the spinning, indigo dyeing, weaving and finishing operations of the Armalith are carried out on a single place (extremely short logistic circuit).
Finally, all the manufacturing processes of Armalith fabric and BOLID’STER jeans are made cold. The ennoblement, quality control and shipping are made in Bordeaux (France). That’s why all BOLID’STER Jean are raw (no fading, no pollution). The components that come into the manufacture of BOLID’STER jeans are manufactured by French, Italian, Spanish or Austrian companies that are exemplary in their environmental and social commitment.
A new era for BOLID’STER
While most brands claim vintage values (Levis) or love of life (Diesel), BOLID’STER remains fascinated by the fundamentals of this fantastic story of jeans : product, innovation, material, start up, patent… you remember ?
BOLID’STER is the first French brand to offer armored jeans. Derived from a technology transfer with the aerospace industry, Armalith 2.0 is the first composite fabric for the manufacture of clothing including denim. Armalith 2.0 is the only material able to protect against abrasion (including the motorcycle standard 13595-2) in a single layer of fabric, while providing the comfort and look real jeans. Armalith is soft, hydrophilic, airy and tinted with a beautiful indigo color that acquire patina with times. This exclusive technology is an authentic denim within its heart, a frame giving it the mechanical qualities of leather.
The new novelty of this year : the color armored jeans ! BOLID’STER developed a new treatment on Armalith 2.0, patented breathable, water repellent and colorful coating : Armalith Skin. It offer a range of different color : Electric Blue, Olive, Choco, Black or Red.
This year you can also find fitted jeans and an ultra technological jacket but with vintage look for summer season. Find our new collection SS18 here !